Turkish TRip REPORT

Population : 85 millions

Visa : Easy

My favorite place : Urfa; Mardin

Istanbul

Istanbul was my first trip after that I bought my first DSLR camera. I was quite excited to explore this huge and cosmopolitan city but also to get to know how to use a camera which led me to commit many beginner mistakes, but that’s how one learns !

In spite being the 6th most visited country in the world, Turkey is relatively poorly-known by European travelers and often overlooked. My own knowledge about the city were quite non-existent and I arrived there without really knowing where I has heading to. (Which is often the perfect mindset for discovering new places).

Napoleon once described Istanbul as the ‘Capital of the world’ and I could not disagree. Being crazy about Turkish/Middle East coffee, I couldn’t be happier than that moment drinking one on a rooftop overlooking the Bosphorus while the sun was setting in. The city is full of sounds, colours & smells. While roaming around, one can see street artists, historical neighbourhoods, modern skyscrapers, mosques, churches, European & Asian architecture, museums, parks, etc… The city is a huge melting pot of different influences. In the streets it is common to see women dressed in Islamic clothing alongside others wearing skirts and cleavage. The city-centre features many bars where you can relax and have a beer like in any European country with the only difference of hearing the regular calls to prayer by the muezzin.

Food lovers will also be happy with delicious sweets & tasty dishes (they share a lot in common with the Greek culture, but that’s a bit controversial 😁). Most of foreigners conceive Turkish cuisine only under the angle of Kebab which is a huge mistake.

For shopping lovers : american brand stores or small traditional Turkish craftsmen, it is possible to find everything in Istanbul. The city center is perfectly secured with police officers everywhere (not always English speaking but often friendly). The subway stations have X-ray scanners and sometimes body searches.

If you arrive at Gokcen airport (the smallest and farthest from the city) you will notice the scope of the Turkish megapolis. The drive takes more than an hour and you will pass through countless neighborhoods under construction that testify to a past economic boom and a current real estate bubble. In recent years, the city has carried out many infrastructure projects such as its new airport, which was the largest in the world when it first opened in 2019. (It is now overtaken by Beijing).

In terms of gigantism, Istanbul has only one opponent in Europe : Moscow. I visited other parts of Turkey when I was a child but I did not have the chance to own a camera by the time. However, I hope to find some time to explore Anatolia soon. Istanbul is featured in my last novel : The Delicacy of Dreams.

If Istanbul is a must-see destination, it would be a shame to limit the country to this city, as fascinating as it is. On my third trip to Turkey, I decided to explore more typical parts of the country. I chose do to a road trip travel through the south of the country, starting with Izmir, Hatay (Antakya), Ganziantep, Urfa and finally Mardin.

Izmir

Izmir is a very pleasant coastal city and considered the most relaxed by the Turks. One can stroll there and behave like anywhere else in Europe. Also, the weather makes it extremely enjoyable.

The atmosphere in the city is very liberal. As an example, I could observe less veiled women than in the French cities and just as many bars. Apart from Roman ruins and a rather neat clocktower, the city has quite few historical buildings. I spent most of my time exploring the different neighborhoods or getting lost in the bazaar. I also enjoyed tasting local dishes like lamb brains and the inevitable baklava. The best thing about Izmir may be its atmosphere and its people. The inhabitants were all easily approachable and it was simple to meet them. I made local friends easily everytime I would hang out somewhere.

From Izmir it is possible to visit the magnificent ruins of Ephesus. These can be reached by regular train as well as by suburb trains. It is better to go early in the morning, as the site can be very crowded.

Hatay (Antakya)

After Izmir I went to Antakya. Also called Hatay, the city should not be confused with Antalya, the seaside resort very popular with Western tourists.

Hatay is located very close to Syria and in particular to the rebel stronghold of Idlib. Because of this proximity, the city is considered as a red zone said to be at risk by the Western authorities. Nevertheless, this classification seemed to me exaggerated and I did not feel any security problems. This should not discourage you from visiting the city. Hatay has a rich history due to its status as a commercial crossroads and its integration into various successive empires. Once Syrian and under the influence of the French mandate, the city was then incorporated into Turkey in 1939.

The historic center is full of charming alleys where old houses still inhabited rub shoulders with mansions converted into restaurants, inns and boutique hotels. The old town concentrates a rather dynamic nightlife with a multitude of bars, karakokés and rooftop cafés that spit out their decibels of pop, electro, rock and traditional songs. When wandering through the streets, you will be surprised to hear this music mingling with the laments of the muezzin who sounds the call to prayer. We are well in the East, with its profusion of colors, sounds and flavors. Let's talk about the food. It is probably in Hatay that I could eat the best meals for an ultra-competitive price. The cuisine was varied and refined. Hatay is also famous for its pastries (the Knufe), however these can be quite heavy and sweet. Due to fatigue and to feel a bit more free, I decided not to bring my camera even though the old city was beautiful. Nevertheless, I took some pictures when I went to the Titus tunnel. The place is located along the coast and is accessible by public transport from Hatay.

Special mention to the museum of mosaics which is incredible and worths the (long) walk.

Gaziantep

After Hatay, I headed for Gaziantep. Although the city is considered the culinary capital of Turkey and renowned for its food, I must say that I preferred Hatay on this point. Nevertheless I loved walking around the city. The Bazaar of Gaziantep is huge and offers real authentic stores where you can find traditional Turkish products and objects. Everywhere you can see craftsmen carving, cutting and shaping. While walking randomly I found myself in a caravanserai reconverted into a tea room populated only by locals. A cup of tea only cost 3 Turkish liras (0.17 euros in September 2022). A citadel also overhangs the city and allows to have a nice view.

The atmosphere is more conservative than in Hatay, Izmir and Istanbul. Fewer people are able to speak English, however, the smiles and hospitality remain unchanged.

Some people praise the mosaic museum but unfortunately I didn't have the time to go there.
Besides of the Bazaar, the city features a nice castle overlooking the city. I also recommend roaming around and exploring outside of the city center. One can find there many picturesque squares and life snapshots.

Likewise many other Turkish cities, Gaziantep features numerous stunning Boutique Hotels for excellent value.

Urfa

Even though the city was initially disadvised to me by inhabitants of western Turkey, I must say that Urfa was my favorite step of the entire roadtrip. Likewise many other areas in this region, several civilizations have occupied the city: Seleucids, Byzantines, Persians, Turks and Arabs.

One has to walk around the gardens in the late afternoon to really get the atmosphere of the city. There I felt an obvious serenity. The green areas are very relaxing and clean. One can cross all kinds of people there: families, couples, elder ones. everyone strolls along neat alleys and canals where sacred fish swim. In the background, several mosques of very successful architecture supplement the scene.

If the atmosphere and architecture of Hatay and Gaziantep reminded me of Syria, Urfa shares more similarities with Iranian cities. Here one really feels like in the Middle-East. Urfa is said to be the birthplace of Abraham. It is also an important place of pilgrimage for the Shiites.

In addition to its green spaces and mosques, Urfa also features an exceptional old city. One can walk through this maze like in a history book or an adventure novel. At the bend of each street we meet another aspect of the local life: men who work or drink the wine, children who play, etc...

Sometimes I have seen convoys of butchers speeding through the streets. Vegetarians and sensitive souls should refrain to watch them but the show is quite picturesque and reminds you how far from home you are.

Mardin

Mardin was the last step of my last Turkish road trip.

The diversity of cultures that make up the city is just stunning. Several religions coexist: Islam, Christianity, Judaism and Yezidism. To be convinced of this, one has to admire the alternation of bell towers and minarets from one of the numerous rooftops scattered across the city. The spectacle is sensational, especially at night. While walking around, I could successively hear Arabic, Turkish and Kurdish being spoken. This cultural mix results from the special history of Mardin, which was has been for a long time a model of religious tolerance.

The city has been built on a hill overlooking the Mesopotamia valley. One can see the neighboring Syria in the distance.The city of Mardin has never had any real security problems recently. The neighboring Syria should not discourage you from visiting this jewel.

The city being mostly made up of Kurds, the culture is slightly different without being fundamentally different from the rest of Turkey. The hospitality is even higher than elsewhere.

It is a real pleasure to get lost in the maze of the old town, where old houses still inhabited by locals rub shoulders with boutique hotels and local craft stores. The ancient city also features a few Coranic schools (Madrassas) that are worth visiting. There are also a few christian sights to explore.

Eventually, one must note that the prices are very reasonable and I really encourage you to taste all kinds of local dishes and to explore the numerous groceries or café.

This was the end of my Turkish road trip. In the future I hope to explore more of the Kurdish areas but also the northern region near the Black Sea.

The following remaining shots feature Ephesus and Istanbul: