Amaury Dreher

EGYPT TRip REPORT

Population : 100 millions

Capital : Cairo/New Cairo

Main languages : Arabic, Nubian, English

Visa : Easy

My favorite place : Aswan (West Bank & Elephantine island)

Introduction to an Egyptian journey

Egypt used to host one of the most advanced civilisations in the world and the remains of such historical heritage have been preserved in excellent conditions. The country is nowadays facing a huge mutation with tremendous challenges ahead (spiking demography, ageing infrastructures, economic addiction to tourism, political uncertainties, etc…)

Getting to Egypt is quite easy as depending on your citizenship you can get a visa on arrival. Moreover there are plenty of airlines operating cheap flights from Europe.

A low cost destination

The cost of traveling across Egypt is quite low for such a top destination. If you manage well you do not have to spend more than 25 euros / night to enjoy clean and comfortable accommodation. If you intend to take a Nile cruise it is possible to find fellow travelers who would like to share the trip (and the costs). There again, prices are fairly reasonable. Eventually, in order to avoid taxi scams it is mandatory to use an app such as Uber (only available in Cairo) or Careem (did not work on my phone).

Beware, drones are not allowed in Egypt and are systematically confiscated at the airport. Also, big lenses and zooms usually make the authorities uncomfortable. You will often have to pay a tax in most tourist places (15$ extra at the pyramids of Giza for example). It is advised not to take your camera out in Tharir Square. In general, taking a camera out in non-tourist areas is frowned upon. The Egyptian government tries to hide the misery and the decay of certain districts. Note that it is possible to climb some minarets for a fee. (Egypt is the country of Bakchich)

Being a foreigner in Egypt attracts a lot of unwanted attention

My experience of Egypt was very mixed because of the street harassment which is incessant and requires a lot of energy both in Cairo and in the rest of the country. The best way to visit the cities is to walk with a local friend, otherwise you may experience hell. About 99% of the people who came to talk to me on the street wanted my money. Only in public transport and especially on the train I was able to make real genuine encounters (btw most of these people advised me not to trust anyone). Every time you buy something, whether it's a simple bottle of water or a boat ride, you have to fight to pay a normal price or get the change back. Also, don't naively expect to ask someone in the street for directions, it is very likely that you will be lied to in order to get to a store or to ask for financial compensation. (This has happened to me several times in Egypt but nowhere else in the world).

I am aware that these behaviors are not representative of the Egyptian population but they strongly damage the experience of traveling in the country (and leave a disastrous image on a human level). That being said, I have absolutely no regrets about my trip to Egypt. The country is full of fascinating places and thousand-year-old sites that you must see at least once in your life.

I was lucky enough to travel during the covid pandemic and enjoy a very low attendance of the cultural places, especially in Luxor where I was able to be alone in the tombs of Ramses 1 and 3 as well as other gorgeous archaeological sites where I crossed only few visitors (Karnak, Luxor, Medinet Habu and Philae temples). The hot air balloon flight over the Valley of the Kings is also an experience I recommend. (remember to compare and negotiate the prices, I met travelers who paid 35$ and others 120$...).

Things to know for your Egyptian trip

It is advisable to hire a guide when visiting cultural sites. Egyptian civilization is so dense and sophisticated that it would be a shame to simply see without understanding all these archaeological and historical treasures that have contributed so much to humanity. Here again, don’t hesitate to be quite harsh in your negotiation when you get approached by some guides and try to make sure they really know the field. It’s often a good idea to ask your accommodation provider if he/she can set up a proper deal with a trusted guide.

I also advise to avoid peak hours to conduct temple visits. Not only will you avoid the crowds of tourists but you can also save yourself from the heat which can be extreme.

Cairo is a bustling city, both fascinating and quite scary. It is a pleasure to get lost in the streets of this megalopolis and to come face to face with markets, stalls of all kinds, mosques, churches, shopping malls, historical areas, etc... There are also some stunning architecture scattered all over the place. However, bear in mind that the Egyptian capital is considered as one of the worst megacity in the world for the safety of women. Besides, the city is extremely hectic and polluted.

Don’t hesitate to explore and look for side streets where you can expand your discoveries.

While roaming randomly in Khân al-Khalili I ended up in very strange shops where it was possible to buy many crazy (and illegal) stuff such as a rhinoceros horn or an elephant tusk. The shop seller told me that some Chinese come purposely to Cairo for buying such items and are ready to pay the 15 000 $ price !

The Nubian region is a must see

In addition to the famous temples and pyramids, the interest for me to go to Egypt is the Nubia, this large territory which extends from the South of Egypt to the North of Sudan. It is the cradle of the Kush civilization, one of the oldest in Africa. The Nubians feel very different from the Egyptians, and for good reason: they have black skin, their own language, their own culture and also their own sense of hospitality. Thus, in Aswan in particular, the contrast is striking between the East Bank where it is impossible not to be harassed/scammed in the streets and the Nubian villages of the West Bank where benevolence prevails and people behaviours are more relaxed.

As I was heading towards Sudan for my road trip, I had no time to visit Alexandria, the White Desert nor the Sinai peninsula but it will be planned for another trip in the future. Egypt is hosting 7 world heritage Unesco sites and you would need many weeks to explore the whole country.

The following shots are featuring Cairo, Luxor, Aswan and its surroundings :