Amaury Dreher

rOMANIA TRip REPORT

Population : 19.5 millions

Capital : Bucharest

Main languages : Romanian (90%), Hungarian, Romani

Visa : Easy

My favorite places : Eastern Bucharest; Cluj, Transfagarasan road, Cismigu park

Introduction to Romania

Being located at the edge of the geographical Europe and the UE, Romania has been facing mixed cultural influences throughout the last centuries. Hence, it is often considered as a Latin island in a Slavic enclave. When it comes to History, things got pretty harsh for Romania. Both the Soviet Union and the Ottoman Empire have let their mark over the country. Besides, Romania was one of the only soviet-influenced countries whose revolution and struggle for independence turned bloody. Nowadays there are still small tensions with the Hungarian neighbor due to certain minority claims and the course of history. However, the country is more or less united towards a deeper European integration and is implementing a market-based economy similarly to its Western counterparts.

Romania owns some strong potential due to two main geopolitical assets : The Danube river which is the second largest river in Europe and the sovereignty over the Black Sea coastline. However, since the 90s the country has been facing a brain drain with a dramatic demographic collapse that prompted governments to attracts Asian workers. Besides, the country is facing endemic corruption and strong inequalities among population. ( In the span of two years I have seen more luxury cars there than during 20 years spent in France).

I traveled extensively in Romania and visited around 12 cities in addition to two different expat experiences in Bucharest, so I would say that I know Romania quite well. The country has the best Eastern European food I have tried. The northern part of the country is more mountainous and features some cute medieval towns that need to be explored. Overall the society is quite conservative (compared to Western European standards) but still less than countries like Poland or Russia. To this date Romania remains one of the most religious countries in Europe and it is common to meet young people who openly declare themselves to be Christians or to see cab drivers let go of the wheel to make the sign of the cross when their route encounters a church.

Bucharest is a charming mess

The capital city owns the urban jungle atmosphere that I love so much (similarly to Beirut but in a more European style). There are hidden restaurants, electrical wiring everywhere, abandoned mansions, huge US brand lighting advertisings over communist buildings, mad traffic, etc… I would say that Bucharest is a peaceful & intriguing anarchy. In the same street, one can admire baroque, Communist, Romanian, French neo-classical, & contemporary architectures. There is no homogeneity which makes every further streets a bit different from the previous one. I spent a lot of time exploring the city’s meanders and I love the coffee shop scene. Special mention to all the beautiful parks of Bucharest whose each ones are truly distinctive and owns a special atmosphere.

The giant Parliament building and the orthodox cathedral which is being built next to it are photogenic but keep in mind that they are hated by locals due to the public fund mismanagement and the remembrance of the Communism hard time of living.

A slow travel destination

Being one of the less developed countries in Europe, the country is lacking of efficient infrastructures. Thus, in Romania you will need a lot of patience when roaming around. The railway network is outdated but very extensive. It spread across the whole country and can get you to even the very remote places. If you enjoy slow travel and wish to explore on a low-budget it is possible to book cheap train journeys on the state-owned railway company : https://www.cfrcalatori.ro. Private train companies offer cheaper and more comfortable rides but operate much less often.

What to see in Romania ?

To my mind the nicest cities are to be found in Transylvania. Likewise, Romania offers three beautiful castles of different styles in Hunedoara, Bran and Sinaia. However, if you travel to Romania do not stick to cities but try to rent a car and go exploring the Carpathians mountains or the Danube Delta. The country also offers tremendous hiking opportunities with a beautiful and raw nature. Be careful of the bears though :p

Romania is featured in my last novel: The Delicacy of Dreams.

The following shots have been taken in Sinaia, Hunedoara, Timisoara, Bucharest, Brasov, the Transfagarasan road & Cluj :