Amaury Dreher

The Faroe Islands trip REPORT

Population : 50 000

Capital : Tórshavn

Languages : Faroese, Danish, English

Visa : Not necessary for EU citizens & many nationalities

My favorite places : Vagar & Kalsoy

I flew to the Faroe Islands in 2019 with Atlantic Airways.

The Faroe Islands used to be quite isolated. However, in the recent years ferry companies and airlines have been developing their routes to this magnificent place. The Covid 19 pandemic may hamper the efforts but back in the time it was possible to fly directly from Paris without any transfer.

It is now time to confess one secret : The Faroe Islands are the most stunning place I have ever seen & experienced (when it comes to nature). Composed by 18 volcanic islands, the archipelago is located somewhere between Iceland and Norway in the North Atlantic Ocean. It features many dramatic & epic landscapes that look so unreal that many months afterwards, I am still speechless when I recall these memories. It is also a very mysterious territory and quite unknown by the general public. Just ask in your social circles and you will notice that 99% of people are unable to point out the archipelago on a map.

As claimed by the local authorities, the nature is truly ‘unspoiled, unexplored, unbelievable’. Although, strictly speaking the territory belongs to the Kingdom of Denmark, it is easy to feel the autonomous status enjoyed by the Faroe Islands : they have their own land, flag, language, cultural norms and even a (tiny) parliament. Also, a discussion with the locals will make you understand very quickly that they are two different nations.

The popularity of the Faroe Islands is increasing every year and I sincerely hope that the local government will take appropriate measures in order to mitigate the impact of the ongoing tourism spike. Fortunately, the awful weather and high cost of the archipelago are somehow detterent for many travellers. For example, a simple cappuccino will cost you at least 4 euros and a meal in a restaurant would be above 20 euros. Also, it rains almost every day and it is difficult to anticipate anything. This unpredictability nevertheless contributes to the beauty of the landscapes because of the constantly changing light and the dramatic succession of clouds in the sky.

In recent years a rather unpleasant trend has developed: some of the most beautiful places of the archipelago have been privatized and it is now necessary to pay to access them or to take certain hikes (the floating lake in the area of Traelenipa, the black sand beach nearby Saksun, the stunning hike to Drangarnir, etc...) The goal is to prevent mass tourism (and to get rich!!!), but I find the rates really unreasonable. Although there is a functioning bus network throughout most of the main islands it is quite difficult to visit the Faroe Islands without renting a car. Here again, the prices are very high. However, driving in the Faroes is a real pleasure and gives a wonderful feeling of freedom. There are very few vehicles and the roads are all scenic. They are dotted with waterfalls, mountains, mystical looking seashores and small peaceful villages. During my trip I had a problem with my rental car. Smoke was coming out of the hood and I had to pull over to the side of the road. I waited literally 10 seconds and the car behind me also stopped to help me.

Unfortunately, overall I had very little interaction with the locals. Traveling to the Faroe Islands is above all an encounter with nature. Nevertheless, I had the chance to participate in a kind of cultural festival in the capital where the inhabitants came to share meals and sing traditional songs.

The Faroe Islands are a very prosperous territory and probably one of the richest on the planet. The absence of noise, wild urbanization and the omnipresence of nature make the trip very relaxing. Also, crime is non-existent. The population maintains a real confidence in itself. Thus, the inhabitants do not lock their houses. The same goes for cars, which are usually parked with the keys inside.

Few places on Earth can claim such ataraxia.

The Faroe Islands are featured in a chapter of my last novel : The Delicacy of Dreams.