Colombia Photography Report

Colombia was an interesting introduction to South America. However I felt frustrated that I had never really taken the time to properly learn Spanish which limited my interactions with locals.

Being pressed for time I focused on very popular and touristy places: Bogota, Salento (Cocora Valley), Medellin, Guatape and Cartagena. Nevertheless, I hope to return one day to explore more remote areas and especially the regions where live indigenous communities.

Discovery of Medellin: a lively city that radiates human life

Like many others, I found Medellin to be a fascinating city, thanks to its topography, its history, its huge, steep districts, its mazes, its nightlife, its cultural offerings and, of course, the warmth of its inhabitants. It is also a place where safety can be a genuine concern although I felt okayish most of the time. The key being basic common sense: not wearing any smartwatch and keepings the hands in pocket to block wallets from any extraction in public transports are two basic rules. My sixth sense as an experienced traveler also suggested me not to walk around with my camera, so my DSLR stayed in the hotel and I took very few photos in the city.

The mistake many foreign visitors make is to focus on the western district of El Poblado, which although very pleasant, is not representative of what Medellin is all about. There are countless of quaint colorful neighborhoods and one just needs to venture randomly. The city is a major cultural hub in Colombia and as such Medellin owns plenty of cool museums & art galleries (do not miss the Antioquia Museum!!).

The city is a perfect definition of an urban jungle, as it's crammed with different types of architecture, all intertwined in a valley along steep escarpments. One morning I took one of the many cable cars to climb as high as possible in the most remote and underprivileged neighborhoods, the infamous Barrios bajos or Invasiones (not to be confused with the Brazilian favelas, although similar). The telepherique is really a superb opportunity to discover Medellin from another angle. Unlike many other cities in the world, it's not a tourist attraction, but a real means of transport that has opened up very poor neighborhoods, enabling residents to move around and get closer to economic areas. Once I arrived in the Barrios Bajos, it only took a few minutes to make friends with some of the local children, some of whom decided to accompany me through the labyrinth. Communication was difficult, but it worked. Strangely enough, I felt less insecure in this area than in the center of Medellin. By talking to locals I realized that the only real risk here for me would be having my phone stolen. No other real threats. On the other hand, several people clearly suggested that I should leave before dark.

In Medellin I stayed in multiple accommodations (hostel, Airbnb & Hotel) to try different atmospheres. Although located in a very touristy area I particularly liked SUI HOTEL BOUTIQUE.

Cocora Valley: A beautiful but slightly disappointing hike

I've always been drawn to this valley (which I innocently thought was mysterious), surrounded by tall palm trees and dramatic mountain ranges.

The reality was a little disappointing, as the region is so touristy and easy to get to (there's an airport nearby) that it is quite crowded by a majority of Western travelers. The trails are quite busy and you'll have to deal with hordes of people taking selfies in front of the palm trees. Still, it's a pleasant and slightly challenging hike with quite a unique scenery. I'm not disappointed at all that I went. However, I recommend coming early morning and doing it in the opposite direction.

To visit Cocora Valley I chose to stay in the nearby town of Salento which is popular for its coffee plantations cute streets. However some drunk British travelers ruined my sleep (I might be too old for hostels..) and I felt quite grumpy while in this town.

Cartagena: A carraibean hub for relaxation

With its walled Old Town, Cartagena is a UNESCO World Heritage site, dazzled with colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and flower-adorned balconies. However, with its international appeal comes an undeniable surge of tourism. At times, the charm of Cartagena can feel overshadowed by crowds and commercialized offerings aimed at visitors.

The city is divided in two: the modern part, which is a Colombian copy of Miami (for much better value though), and the historic part, which is very pretty, but unfortunately looks like a playground for Westerners. The restaurants, however were excellent. You should try Sierpe Caribe Fusión!

Yet, despite its touristy side, Cartagena retains an irresistible allure, largely thanks to its distinct Caribbean vibe. The rhythm of champeta music fills the air, while the tropical breeze carries the aroma of fresh seafood and arepas from street vendors. Its beaches, like Playa Blanca and the Rosario Islands, promise turquoise waters and sun-soaked relaxation, even if they do require some effort to escape the bustling crowds.