Amaury Dreher

IRAN Photography Trip REPORT

Population : 83 millions

Capital : Tehran

Main languages : Persian (Farsi), Kurdish, Azerbaijani

Visa : Intermediate

My favorite places : Yazd & Isfahan

Introduction to an Iranian journey

I travelled twice in Iran (2017 & 2019). From vast deserts to splendid ancient architecture, the country owns everything to be a top destination for those willing to overcome prejudices. The country is a real paradise for travel photographer where every day is a new change of scenery : mountains, seasides, deserts, ancient districts, holy sights and even hipster coffee shops. During my two trips, I had the chance to visit about 10 cities and to meet so many locals from various areas. The country being three times bigger than France there is still much more to explore and I look forward to going back; notably to wander through the Kurdish territories.

Iran remains one of the most stable countries in the Middle East and traveling there does not raise any safety issues.

Traveling in Iran is all about kindness, hospitality and curiosity

The Iranian people are educated, kind, hospitable and proud of their culture. They are not cut off from the world and do not reject the West at all. I felt safer in Tehran than in Paris and this is not a naive slogan but an observation shared by other travelers I met there. While walking in the streets or various gardens of Iranian cities it is common to be approached with kindness, curiosity and to be offered tea or even better, to be invited home for dinner. During my journeys I took numerous public transportation rides (night trains, buses, metro, etc…) and always had positive interactions with the locals. Iran is actually a very easy country to solo travel (yes, easier than any European one) due to the hospitality sense of the population and their constant curiosity towards foreigners. Introvert travelers will be delighted and will make local friends easily.

A fascinating culture

If the US sanctions have dramatic effects over the Iranian economy and people’s lives it also has the positive consequence to somehow protect the Persian culture from some globalisation consequences. Hence it is a real pleasure to wander through streets which have not been conquered by Western brands such as Macdonalds or Starbucks but instead craftspeople, groceries, shops, restaurants and coffees places oriented around the Iranian culture. Many Iranian cities are featuring gorgeous parks and districts full of old architecture where people are still living nowadays.

I suggest reading a lot about the history of the country before, while and after visiting. It will help you with the understanding of its culture but also to put this current state in perspective. The Iranian revolution of 1979 was the result of a complex (and controversial) process. Besides books or documentaries, feel free to discuss it with locals if you want to know more about it. However keep in mind that the topic is highly political and can result in contrasted opinions depending on whom you are talking to.

The Persian civilization has 5000 years of history and should not be reduced to the last 40 years. (In the recent years the Hollywood industry produced a bunch of successful movies related to Iran such as Argo or 300. If they remain highly entertaining, keep in mind that they could be assimilated to propaganda given their biased and misleading representations. For more relevant movies, have a look at my own selection).

Tips for your first trip to Iran

For drone junkies, do not bring your device to Iran. It is strictly forbidden to fly it there and the Iranian government takes this matter very seriously. A French backpacker recently got into huge troubles : https://www.nytimes.com/2021/05/30/world/europe/france-iran-spying-briere.html

Moreover, due to geopolitical reasons do not take any photo of official buildings or restricted areas. Likewise, do always get the authorisation of the people you are shooting at with your camera. Apply common sense and everything will be fine. Iran is a safe country and you will enjoy your time there. If you travel on your own the only area you should avoid is Balochistan nearby the Pakistani border.

I don't know where this rumor comes from, but in no way does a trip to Iran prevent you from entering the United States later on (it jeopardises the ESTA but regular Tourism or Work visas are still possible).

I recommend using a VPN in order to get access to your favorite apps while you are in the country. Iran is outside the international banking system due to lack of compliance with financial security standards and the US sanctions. Thus it is essential to arrive in Iran with a lot of cash because you will not be able to withdraw at ATMs. If you find that you have not brought enough cash, it is possible to make arrangements with some of the carpet merchants in the bazaar who often have payment terminals linked to Dubai-based bank accounts. Also, some hotels can help you out. According to rumors this is the case with Iran Cozy Hostel in Tehran but I haven't checked for myself.

Where to go in Iran ?

Planning an itinerary to Iran can turn out tricky insofar as the size of the country and its diversity. For a first trip most travelers usually do a loop starting from Tehran, then heading to Kashan, Yazd, Isfahan, Shiraz and then back to the capital city.

If you pass by Shiraz I strongly recommend to arrange a day trip to visit the ruin of Persepolis which was the capital of the Achaemenid Empire. It is one of the world greatest archaeological sites and if you go early morning it will not be crowded at all (in comparison with similar high-class UNESCO ruins across the world). Due to the size of the country many travelers rely on internal flights to get around. It will save you some time but you will miss all the interactions with locals and beautiful scenery that you would get from public transports. Besides, I really recommend boarding the overnight train between Shiraz and Tehran. By the time it cost me around 15 euros for a 1st class ticket and the journey was absolutely stunning (modern coach, comfortable sleeper, Persian carpet on the floor and free regular tea serving by the train staff).

How to reach Iran and get around there ?

If you are coming from Europe the cheapest airline tickets are usually offered by Ukraine International Airlines and Pegasus. If you prefer coming by land it is also possible to enter the coutry from the Armenian border. I chose this route in 2019 and came directly from Yerevan. The bus journey is quite long but prices are very reasonable.

Due to the US sanctions against Iran many useful travel services are not available in Iran notably Airbnb and Uber. However you can use SNAPP! the Iranian ride-hailing app which works very well and not only in Tehran. Eventually, if you are not sure about the accommodation, don't look any further. Hi Tehran Hostel is the best place: clean, cheap, centrally located and perfect for meeting other travelers or just relaxing in a hammock.

For those aspiring to travel to Iran, do not hesitate to contact me if you need help or tips for your planning :)

The following shots are featuring Yazd, Shiraz, Isfahan, Rasht, Tehran, Tabriz and Kashan :