Amaury Dreher

Sudan TRip REPORT

Population : 43 millions

Capital : Khartoum

Main Languages : Arabic, Nubian

Visa : Difficult

My favorite places : Abri & Karima

Introduction to a Sudanese journey

Sudan is not for beginner solo traveler. It is the kind of adventure which requires some experience and personal soft skills, particularly if you travel on your own. However it definitely worths challenging yourself and go solo traveling there as Sudan might be Africa’s best secret.

If you are from a Western culture background as I am, the change of scenery and cultural gap will be absolutely huge. That was precisely what I found appealing when I decided to go. Sudan is a unique off the beaten path destination. In spite of hosting a fascinating history and many unknown cultural sites it is one of the least visited country in the world. In contrast with my trip to Egypt I did not meet any traveler there (except a crazy and fascinating Indian guy).

Getting a Sudanese visa is already an adventure

Obtaining a Sudanese visa from Europe is complicated because you are required to join to your application a letter of invitation that only few expensive hotels in Khartoum can provide (such as Acropole Hotel which is a popular choice for many travelers and foreign journalists but I found their fees to be unreasonable). The alternative solution is to get the visa at the Sudanese embassy in Cairo. The procedure takes about a day and the visa costs $150. There, no need for the damn invitation letter, you just have to fill in a Visa sponsor (I put a name of a hotel chosen at random). I strongly recommend anyone who wish to apply for a visa through this embassy to arrive very early, even before the opening hours because the place gets insanely overcrowded throughout the day.

In Cairo, the Sudanese embassy is a total mess. Organization is chaotic, the air-conditioning is on full blast, children are running around, nobody respects the lines, my passport was flying from hand to hand, words in Arabic were shouted in all directions. The precious document was finally delivered to me after literally 6 hours of waiting and many misunderstandings !

To cross the border and reach Wadi Halfa, I also had to be patient. Egyptian policemen are sitting nonchalantly and smoking with their AK-47s in their belts. They will wait for long hours (and a baksheesh) before opening the gate.

Historical and cultural contexts

North Sudan is hosting the Nubia region where was located the Kingdom the Kush which is one of the oldest civilisations in Africa. The area used to be one of the most thriving regions on the continent and Nubian people are still trying to maintain their culture nowadays in spite of the political pressures from both the Egyptian governments. To this day Nubia’s past is still poorly understood and both archaeologists and historians are struggling to unravel its secrets. The Sudanese government has many other challenges than funding conservation programs or to promote tourism and the region heritage is regularly threatened by water geopolitics. (notably China and Ethiopia which are planning multiple dams in spite of the local opposition).

Before the secession with its southern part in 2011 (South Sudan is now the youngest country in the world), Sudan used to be the biggest African country with a huge and diverse territory (and also full of both oil and gold reserves). A 30 years old dictatorship recently ended and the country is now experiencing a political transition mixed with strong economic challenges. On top of that Sudan is facing a refugee influx from South Sudan where a civil war has been ongoing since independence.

Is it safe to travel to Sudan ?

I guess that is one of the most common misconception about traveling across such off the beaten track countries (and across Africa in general). When it comes to Sudan this feeling may be legitimized by the relative complacency of the Sudanese government in the past and notably the hosting of Osama bin Laden a few years before 9/11. This being said, nowadays things have evolved and the country is not anymore a place of refuge for terrorist organizations. Overall, the areas of Sudan where foreigners are allowed to travel are very safe. Yes, you may have heard about Darfur and the humanitarian crisis which is happening there is indeed really sad. This region is located quite far and requires a special permit. Even though you would get there, clashes and violence are not oriented towards foreigners but between ethnic groups and the Sudanese government. The real danger in Sudan (outside of Darfur) is not the violence as many think, but the heat which can be extreme. Never go on a trip in the middle of the afternoon and always make sure you have at least 2-3 L of water per person. In remote places or small villages it is impossible to buy it and trust me, it is safer not to drink water from the tap (nor from the Nile, many locals do this but their immune system is used to it).

highlight of the trip : The Sudanese people and their hospitality

The best part about traveling in Sudan is not necessarily about the food or the architecture but its people. The Sudanese are very spontaneous and laugh a lot. Some were amused by my fascination with the night sky. The children thought that I had never seen stars, they did not understand that in Europe we can hardly spot anything because of light pollution.

The Sudanese make a point of welcoming foreigners. It is not unusual to be offered a cab or even a meal by strangers. Unlike the Egyptian neighbor, prices are not depending on what the customer (tourist) looks like. Thus, negotiating is less necessary than elsewhere.

Even though the country is part of the so-called third-world, Sudan should not be considered as a budget destination. The lack of infrastructures can provide some challenges. In that sense, outside of Khartoum there are very few hotels or guesthouses competing with each other and therefore they have no incentives to keep reasonable prices in line with local standards. Thus my accommodation budget turned higher in Sudan than it was in Egypt or even some European countries. Keep in mind also the visa fees that I mentioned earlier.

This is being said, it is possible to eat Foul in a restaurant for 0.50€ (pita bread with beans and oily sauce, it is the main local dish). In the same way, 150km of minibus will cost you about 2-3€. The roads are in very good condition and it is easy to hitchhike. I never waited more than 10 minutes to get a ride. Simcards are also quite affordable but I would not necessary advise to take one as mine barely worked even in the capital city. (The network is super slow and can not load much data. However you may be able to pass and receive calls)

Karthoum : a chaotic capital city

I like to be honest while describing my trips so here is a personal comment : I absolutely hated Kharthoum. The capital city does not have any soul : the airport is located right in the middle of the city and all the streets are covered with garbage. Traffic is completely insane and there is literally no district where you would enjoy to walk randomly or to explore. Perhaps the only exception to this whirlwind of noise and dust is the Ozone café-restaurant which is a real haven for relaxation in the city center. The place is European style and as such is not very typical of the Sudanese culture. You can meet many foreigners, UN staff or locals from wealthy social classes.

The best moments I had in Karthoum consisted in sitting under a tree among locals and drinking tea while attempting to communicate with smiles and gestures.

I also need to add that I had my phone stolen (2 guys on a motorbike snatching). It was not violent and I am not particularly angry at them, I am aware they are trying to survive and to avoid starvation. As you may already know, Sudan is one of the poorest countries in the world and locals experience a very hard life, the kind of one you need to see with your own eyes in order to really understand it. I am also aware that such things could have happened in Europe. I insist on the fact that the theft did not change my perception of the Sudanese people : full of kindness, hospitality and caring towards me (and any other traveler I guess). In the city of Dongola I recall a random guy in the street who helped me to find my way and ended up paying for my taxi. Likewise, while interacting with locals it is common to be invited for tea or even dinner at home. This is the Sudanese mindset I will remember from my journey there. (if you want a contrast story, I suggest you to read my post about the awful experience I had in Egypt).

Abri : a must see to discover the Nubian culture

For those staying in Abri; I absolutely recommend spending their nights in Magzoub Nubian guesthouse. Do not hesitate to contact him by phone (00249 122 886 586 or 00249 911 220 984). Besides wifi and hot water (a luxury in Sudan for the cold winter nights), the place is located on the edge of the Nile and the owner Magzoub is extremely friendly and helpful. Moreover, the whole village knows him, so if you get lost in the surroundings just ask locals and refer to his name.

My only regret during this trip is that I missed the Méroé Pyramids which was supposed to be the highlight of my time in Sudan (I managed to see the Karima ones though). Likewise, I wished to visit Kerma, Kassala and Port Sudan on the coastline. However, I am pretty sure I will come back some day. There is a lot to explore in Sudan, people just have no idea about it.

Important tips

To avoid some final troubles that I had, I absolutely recommend taking with you the Yellow fever vaccination certificate (no, it is not strictly compulsory to have it to get there, but you may thank me later…). On top of that, always bring (much) more USD dollars than you plan to spend. This might save you from unexpected tricky situations as it is almost impossible to withdraw cash in the country. Besides, likewise many African countries Sudan is suffering from the Malaria threat. I personally took my own risk by not taking any specific medicines (they have some serious side effects), however please keep in mind that the consequences of a Malaria infection can be really serious and potentially lead you to death. Due to the Islamic requirements and the extreme heat, it is advised anyway to wear long sleeves and clothes who cover most of your body. Also, try to be vigilant for mosquitoes at night and take the necessary precautions. Overall, you do not need to be paranoid, just vigilant.

How to reach Sudan ? By land, Air, or ferry

The cheapest way to fly to Sudan is often from Cairo (EgyptAir) or Istanbul (Turkish Airlines). When planning your itinerary keep in mind that within the country itself you will not have much choice and will have to rely on long buses journey. According to the legend there are some passenger trains but they more or less stopped functioning and are now only used for cargo. Some travelers choose the option to come by ferry from Aswan in Egypt. The crossing of Nasser lake takes up to 20 hours and needless to say that comfort on board is very low-standard but I have no doubt that it worths the adventure.

Eventually, traveling to Sudan turned out to be an extraordinary experience and I can not wait to go back to explore more !

For anyone having questions or needing help to plan a trip to Sudan, do not hesitate to reach me on Instagram or by email.

The following shots are featuring Abri and its surroundings, Karima, Jebel Barka and Khartum :