SYRIA TRIP REPORT

Population : 17,5 millions

Capital : Damascus

Main Language : Arabic

Visa : easy/difficult (depending on your approach and local connections)

My favorite places : Maaloula, Aleppo

Introduction to a Syrian journey

For many people from the Western world such a trip may seem beyond understanding and akin to a provocation which leaves me unconcerned. No matter how hard I tried to gather companions for my trip, I quickly realized that no one around me seemed to be eager to explore Syria with me.

Why go to Syria ? Beyond the usual reasons such as History, the culture, the gastronomy and the architecture, it was the discovery of the country in the broadest sense that attracted me and the opportunity to get a better understanding. I prefer to see the world with my own eyes instead of relying on Netflix stories. I wanted to approach a society that few people in the Western world really knew and especially to meet more of its people. Having already lived other similar experiences such as in Iran, I knew that the trip would not feature any serious dangers and that it would offer me a new perspective on a region of the world that is poorly understood and too easily misrepresented. Over the years my travel experiences have taught me that the perception of a risk and the real risk are largely distorted by preconceptions shaped through media, informational pressure and lack of knowledge. Eventually, the decision to make the trip came naturally.

Historical and cultural context

Syria's history has been shaped by civilizations as successful as they were diverse: Phoenicians, Aramaeans, Persians, Arabs, Greeks, Ottomans, Roman and Byzantine Empires, etc… Besides History, Syria is a complex country due to its demography but also its geography. Indeed one can find there all types of religions (Christians, Muslims, Jews, etc…), minorities (Druze, Kurds, Maronites, Assyrians, Armenians, Yazidis, Turkmen, etc...), and landscapes (mountains, desert, sea, large urban areas, etc…) scattered across a relatively small territory. There is much to learn from this country whose culture has survived so many centuries and the recent civil war.

This may seem counter-intuitive, but I mean it. The Syria I saw seemed to me quite peaceful and captivating. Of course I observed destruction and poverty, but I also met a real soulfulness among the population. The people I encountered in Damascus or Aleppo do not have different aspirations than ours. Surprisingly, the French language is still spoken by few, especially among the older generation but not only.

If anything seems to have traumatized the people of Damascus, it is not only the war but also the inflation. The collapse of the national currency is on everyone's lips. In 2011 the exchange rate was about 1$ for 50 Syrian pounds. To the day my trip it was 1$ for 3200 Syrian pounds according to the black market rate. Thus, for many Syrians, their life savings have been wiped out. In talking with the population I was able to make a statement that seems to be shared by all. The country has never been so safe since the beginning of the crisis in 2011. On the other hand, the economic situation is worse than ever and the US sanctions are preventing any strong recovery. In spite of these enormous difficulties, I perceived a sense of optimism among the population, especially the young. During an urban art festival in Damascus I even met a girl who had graduated from a prestigious school of political science in France and who still chose to return to work and live in her home country.

The Soul of the Middle East

Among many other memories, I will remember the unique atmosphere of my boutique hotel in Damascus. The architecture was typical of the Ottoman period with an inner courtyard including a fountain, mosaics, sofas on which one could relax in the evening drinking tea or smoking hookah while enjoying a delicious hummus. In the background one could hear the choirs of the Orthodox church where Easter was celebrated. I didn't really know if I was in Europe or more in the East: the mixture of smells, sounds and atmospheres were superimposed, the whole in a rather disconcerting peace that it is difficult to believe for anyone in the Western world.

Damascus is a multi-ethnic city where various types of population co-exist. In the city center, which is predominantly Christian, it is quite possible to find bars, cafes or to meet couples strolling casually. Some of the streets reminded me of the atmosphere of southern Europe. There are terraces and boutique hotels, handicraft stores, girls in short dresses and old stone churches.

Obviously it is advisable to adapt one's behavior according to the district where one is. Out of respect, it is better not to walk around with a beer in your hand in the Muslim neighborhoods or wear clothes that may be deemed inappropriate.

By chance my trip coincided with both Easter and Ramadan which made the trip even more interesting. Thus, in the Christian quarter I could attend the Easter celebrations which are thunderous: a brass band strolled through the city center followed by a giant procession of families, couples and curious people. A few minutes later I went seing the mausoleum of Saladin before walking in the Umayad mosque where the faithful ones came to accomplish their prayer at the same time as they were fasting.

Besides, one should note that Syrian food is excellent and shares many similarities with the food of the whole region (Lebanon, Israel, Palestine, Turkey, etc.). However, one must be careful about hygiene, especially when it comes to street food. Special attention should be paid to the meat although the local shawarmas are delicious. The countless markets in the various cities are often an opportunity to buy excellent quality products (vegetables, fruits, seeds of all kinds, etc.). As in many countries in the Middle East, middle-class restaurants are rather rare. Thus, you will find many street stalls or high-end restaurants but rarely any kind of compromise. Likewise, tipping is part of the local culture and not only when it comes to restaurants.

Damascus and Aleppo are both competing as ones of the oldest inhabited cities in the world with the origins estimated to be 5000 years old. Both cities are very intriguing to explore. Life is bustling here. One can find at each corner of the street people who are busy, fruit and vegetable stalls, incessant ballets of cabs, mosques alongside churches and historical buildings are scattered here and there. The center of Aleppo has an architecture that seemed to me similar to that of Southern Europe. I explored the city on foot and was able to talk to many inhabitants, young and old. I walked alone in the evening without any feeling of insecurity. (staying however in the downtown area). Locals were very nice and happy to see foreigners. One pastry shop even refused to let me pay for the traditional desserts I craved and ended up offering them to me.

Along with Iraq, Syria was the cradle of civilisation. Therefore it features lots of historical and cultural places of all kinds. I recall especially Maaloula, a Christian village where locals still communicate in the Aramaic language. The village is nestled in the hollow of two rocky aplombs. Orthodox churches can be found everywhere across the place. Some of the nuns of the main convent were taken hostage back in 2013 when the village fell into the hands of Islamist groups. The Syrian army has since then regained control of the area and the nuns have been released. To this day, they still live in the convent and ring the bells daily. I was able to meet one of her and she seemed extremely happy to see foreigners. The village is now tremendously peaceful as it always was before the civil war. Children play happily in the schoolyard around fruit trees. Older people gather on benches to sip a local sweet wine and chat. The tranquility of the place makes it difficult to imagine the clashes that once happened. The only remnant of the horrors that took place is the totally destroyed hotel that overlooks the village from the hill.

Palmyra : a 2000-year-old city

One of the highlights of the trip was a visit to the ancient city of Palmyra. The city appears as early as the end of the 3rd millennium BC, on a tablet from Kültepe in Cappadocia. throughout antiquity Plamyra was a trade center between Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean coast. This oasis in the middle of the Syrian desert acted as a real independent state which allied itself with Rome. It is thanks to Palmyra that the Roman Empire could acquire exotic goods. This strategic position at the crossroads of civilisation between Orient and the Western world allowed Palmyra to enjoy a great prosperity during several centuries.

The archeological site features a theatre, an agora, multiple temples and urban districts :

Today the ancient site adjoins a modern city, albeit in ruins. The city got controled twice by ISIS before its final recapture by the Syrian army in 2017. As I looked closely at the ground I saw a few bullets testifying to the fierce fighting that had raged here. Although the rubble stretches as far as the eye can see, it seems that life is slowly returning to normal. Kids play in the rubble being cleared while a falafel store has just opened.

Besides Palmyra, I got to see numerous historical sites and especially an outstanding castle : Krach des Chevaliers. It is one of the best preserved Crusader castles in the world and was considered as the ‘most beautiful one’ by Lawrence of Arabia himself. It was originally built in the 12th century and subsequently improved by the Mamluks. The castle overlooks a beautiful green valley that makes you forget that you are in the heart of the Middle East :

Is it safe to travel to Syria ?

The situation remains extremely complicated to grasp and it is not the purpose of this article to analyze the geopolitical dynamics around the conflict.

However, to simplify and clarify the context of my trip: Syria is currently divided into 4 clearly demarcated areas :

• The red zone corresponding to the territory controlled by the Government of Bashar El Assad which can be considered now as the ‘official’ Syria.

• The orange and yellow zone corresponding to the autonomous territory controlled by the Kurds who are building a communist state with the support of the US.

• The green zone of the North corresponding to the territory controlled by the extremist rebels and falling under Turkish influence.

• The green zone of the South corresponding to the territory controlled by the so-called 'moderate' rebels who reached a kind of compromise with the Syrian government.

It is important to note that the government-controlled territory is totally safe. It is the only place where it is possible to travel with a peace of mind. The Kurdish territories in the east are out of reach even for the Syrians themselves. Stories circulate about unwary travelers who have tried to go there and ended up captured and imprisoned by the Kurdish authorities. Therefore I decided to stick to the ‘official’ Syria that is to say the red territory of the map. As I earlier mentioned, the country has never been as stable and secure as it is today since the crisis began in 2011. Checkpoints are numerous and the Syrian army will not let anyone enter dangerous areas without permission or special escorts.

In large cities such as Aleppo or Homs, the destruction is still important but it needs to be put into perspective. Yes, entire neighborhoods are in a state of rubble but few meters away life has resumed its course. The inhabitants are busy everywhere. Children are playing soccer in the streets, merchants are shouting to sell their products, couples are walking, the elders observe the bustle, etc... Life seems quite normal in most of the neighborhoods. Real estate projects are being launched to relocate the population and some historical hotels are under reconstruction. Also, in Aleppo I had the chance to meet the team of engineers and architects in charge of rebuilding the great historical souk of the city. The work seems to be progressing quickly and the enthusiasm of the locals to return Aleppo to its former glory was delightful to witness. I have no doubts that Syria will rise again.

Important tips

As in most so-called sensitive countries, it is imperative to behave with some kinds of restraint and to apply common sense. Do not take portraits without the consent of the people concerned. This is very important with regard to the military. Remember that the country is still technically at war and the risks of espionage or undercover journalism are taken very seriously by the authorities. Overall, I did not feel much pressure. I walked around most of the time with my Canon DSLR slung over my shoulder without any problems. However, following the advice of some locals I decided to use my 200mm zoom lens very sparingly, as it makes me look like a journalist (which I am not). Tripods attract attention and may trigger the suspicion of soldiers at checkpoints. If you decide to take one with you, it is best to choose a small model that does not suggest hidden agendas. For obvious reasons drones are banned within the country and I can only discourage you to bring one for your trip in Syria.

On top of that, always bring more USD dollars than you plan to spend. This might save you from unexpected tricky situations as it is impossible to withdraw cash in the country due to the international sanctions. Besides these elements, enjoy Syria, the country is worth it.

For anyone having questions or needing help to plan a trip to Syria, do not hesitate to reach me on Instagram or by email.

The following shots are featuring Damascus, Maaloula, Aleppo and Palmyra :