Travel

The Secret Side of NYC: My Favorite Must-Visit Hidden Spots

New York City has an endless array of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered. Each of these unique spots offers a distinct experience that showcases the city's rich diversity and vibrant culture. Step off the beaten path and explore the secret side of NYC—you'll be amazed by what you find!

In other words, get the fuck out of Times Square (hell on Earth), MoMa (overrated) and SoHo (nothing more than an open-air shopping mall). New-York is way more than that and I am gonna prove it with some gems that foreign travelers have never heard of.


Public Records (Live Music, Coffee & Food)

The Atrium

The Sound Room

A Cultural Hub in Gowanus

Located in Gowanus, Brooklyn, Public Records is a one-of-a-kind venue combining a café, vegan restaurant, record shop, and live music space. With its industrial-chic ambiance and commitment to sustainability, it's the perfect spot to sip artisanal coffee while discovering rare vinyl records.

Featuring an eclectic lineup of performances, from local bands to international artists, the intimate setting provides an unparalleled auditory experience. The state-of-the-art sound system ensures that every note is delivered with pristine clarity, making it a must-visit destination for music lovers. There I could attend niche Ambient shows, Pakistani folk, Iraqi Techno sets and also Swedish pop concerts. In addition to its main Atrium the place features two concert rooms for different atmospheres.

The café at Public Records is a haven for coffee lovers and food enthusiasts alike. With its commitment to sustainability, the café serves up delicious, plant-based dishes and artisanal coffee in a cozy, industrial-chic setting.

Whether you're looking to expand your vinyl collection, enjoy a delicious meal, or experience live music in an intimate setting, Public Records offers a unique and enriching experience that celebrates the intersection of culture and community.

Address: 233 Butler St, Brooklyn, NY 11217


Nōksu (Fine dining)

A Culinary Gem in the underground

Indulge in the flavors of Korean Fusion at Nōksu, a hidden restaurant located in the subway of the city. Led by acclaimed Chef Dae Kim, Nōksu features a 15-seat tasting counter where guests can indulge in a meticulously crafted 9-course menu that showcases innovative takes on seafood-oriented dishes.

At Nōksu, each dish is a work of art, combining traditional Korean flavors with contemporary culinary techniques. The menu highlights a variety of seafood, including finned fish, shellfish, and game, all prepared with precision and creativity. Signature dishes such as the barbecued squab, inspired by walks through New York City's Chinatown, and the sunflower-shaped surf clam steamed egg, adorned with crispy potatoes and Kaluga caviar, exemplify the restaurant's commitment to excellence. They just earned their first Michelin Star!

The ambiance at Nōksu is both elegant and intimate, with a sleek black marble counter that stretches the length of the room. Guests are treated to a front-row view of the culinary action, as chefs armed with tweezers meticulously manage and primp each dish. It's a real pleasure to watch their work while waiting for the next dish, building anticipation and healing impatience.

Nōksu's unique location within the NYC subway system adds to its charm, offering a hidden gem that surprises and delights diners. You will need a secret code to enter that door!

Address: 49 W 32nd St, New York, NY 10001


Metrograph (Indie Cinema/Bar/Restaurant)

A Cinephile’s Paradise

Metrograph

Located between the vibrant Lower East Side and Chinatown, Metrograph is an independent theater that celebrates the art of cinema in a unique and intimate setting. With its retro vibe and eclectic movie selections, Metrograph offers a cinematic experience unlike any other in New York City.

At Metrograph, you'll find a carefully curated lineup of films that spans various genres, eras, and styles. From classic Hollywood masterpieces to indie gems and international cinema, Metrograph's diverse programming ensures there's always something intriguing for every movie lover. The theater's commitment to showcasing both well-known and obscure films creates an atmosphere of discovery and appreciation for the art of filmmaking. I may have spent way too much money in Metrograph but it allowed me to watch (among many others) Pasolini, Wim Wenders, Gaspard Noe, Tarkovsky, Wong Kar Wai and Terrence Mallick’s masterpieces on a big screen which is priceless. They also often invite directors or film crew members for Q&A and special screenings.

The venue itself exudes a vintage charm, with its stylish interiors and cozy screening rooms that transport you back to the golden age of cinema. The main theater, known for its plush seating and excellent acoustics, provides an immersive viewing experience that allows you to fully lose yourself in the magic of the movies.

Metrograph is more than just a theater—it's a cultural hub that fosters a sense of community among film enthusiasts. The on-site Commissary restaurant and bar offer a perfect spot to discuss films over a delicious meal or a craft cocktail. Whether you're attending a special screening, a film festival, or one of Metrograph's many events, you'll find yourself surrounded by like-minded individuals who share your passion for cinema. The place also occasionally turns into a flea market or a thrift store where one can buy rare cinema-related (hipster) items.

Address: 7 Ludlow St, New York, NY 10002


Antidote (Restaurant)

Chinese delights in Williamsburg

Antidote is a culinary haven at the heart of Williamsburg a few meters away from the waterfront and close to Domino Park. This atmosphere is very neat with a menu that showcases the best of Sichuan cuisine, making it a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts.

The place definitely brought me memories back from my two China trips. Some dishes are closer to Fusion and the chefs actually updated Chinese cuisine bringing it a sense of modernism.

From the spicy Kung Pao Chicken to the savory Mapo Tofu, each dish is crafted with care and precision, using the freshest ingredients to ensure an unforgettable dining experience. The menu also features a variety of small plates and appetizers, such as the Wood Ear Mushroom Salad and the Beancurd in Chili Oil, perfect for sharing with friends and family.

The restaurant's unique design, complete with a skylight and a random terrarium, adds to its charm and makes it a perfect spot for a relaxed meal or a special occasion. Obviously it is more pricey than the small Chinese spots you may find all around the city but for the Williamsburg standards it is quite reasonable. Service is also top-notch.

Whether you're a fan of Sichuan cuisine or simply looking for a cozy spot to unwind, Antidote promises a delightful and memorable experience.

Address: 66 S 2nd St, Brooklyn, NY 11249


Baciccia (restaurant)

My Favorite pizza in New York

If you also think that New York-style pizzas (in other words the greasy fast-food/junky/ultra-processed thing that locals are so proud of) are a disaster and extremely overrated you may want to read this paragraph. The city actually has some authentic Italian pizzas with high-quality ingredients and a sense of balance. DO NOT GO TO THE SO-CALLED “LITLLE ITALY” thing which is a gigantic tourist trap.

Located in the heart of Park Slope, Baciccia Pizza e Cucina is a delightful Italian eatery that brings the flavors of Italy to Brooklyn. With its warm and inviting atmosphere, Baciccia offers a cozy spot to enjoy delicious, authentic Italian cuisine (the family owning the place is from Sicilia).

At Baciccia Pizza e Cucina, you'll find a menu filled with mouthwatering options, from classic pizzas to delectable pasta dishes. Each pizza is crafted with care, featuring a thin, crispy crust and topped with the finest ingredients. Whether you opt for the traditional Margherita or the savory Tre Porcellini, every bite is a testament to the art of Italian pizza-making.

The restaurant's ambiance is both charming and welcoming, with rustic décor that transports you to a quaint Italian trattoria. The friendly and attentive staff ensure that every visit is a memorable one, providing impeccable service and a warm, family-like atmosphere. They also offer a creative pizza of the week and sometimes oysters but I ALWAYS go for the Emiliana pizza! Don’t miss the LEGENDARY affogato!!!!!!

Address: 8309 3rd Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11209


Honeycomb Hi-Fi Lounge (bar/Listening Room)

A Sonic Sanctuary in Park slope

In the heart of Brooklyn, Honeycomb Hi-Fi Lounge offers a haven for audiophiles and music enthusiasts seeking a neat auditory experience.

At Honeycomb Hi-Fi Lounge, you'll find an impressive collection of vintage records and state-of-the-art sound systems that ensure every note is delivered with pristine clarity. The lounge is designed to celebrate the art of listening, with curated playlists that span a diverse range of genres and artists. The ambiance at Honeycomb Hi-Fi Lounge features a dark and cathedral-like décor: a perfect scenery for music lovers who want to gather to share their love for sound and Japanese whiskeys. It is also a perfect place to hang out on your own enjoying the records played.

Whether you're a fan of classic jazz, experimental electronic, or soulful R&B, Honeycomb Hi-Fi Lounge offers a sonic journey that caters to all musical tastes. The place also hosts intimate listening sessions and special events that highlight the beauty of high-fidelity audio. Although I love that place, bear in mind that it is always crowded and New Yorkers often chat very loud!

New-York is full of interesting listening bars. Another option (more classy but less intimist) could be Eavesdrop in Greenpoint. Some people love Hi-Note in East Village but I found that place quite overrated (poor sound system and uninteresting atmosphere).


Address: 74 5th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11217


Green-wood Cemetery (Park)

A stroll through NYC’s best park

For a very long time I did not realize that my best neighbors were dead people! My first apartment in New York was located just next to the Green-wood Cemetery and it took me 6 months before actually entering it. With its stunning Gothic Revival architecture, historic monuments, and beautifully landscaped grounds, a stroll through Green-Wood feels like a journey back in time. The cemetery is home to the graves of many notable figures, including artists, politicians, and Civil War heroes. For instance Basquiat was buried there. The architecture is quite varied with some impressive structures which are all very well maintained.

Green-wood is probably the most underrated place in the city to have a serene walk surrounded by stones, trees and even small lakes. There you won’t meet any tourists, homeless, drug addicts, nor annoying NYU kids chatting loudly about their stereotyped lives. Instead you will encounter squirrels, swans, quiet photographers, cute couples strolling around, painters and quirky souls reading Geopolitics magazines by the lake (joking, I don’t live there anymore). During summer some outdoor film screenings are organized as well as concerts.

The park is bigger than what you think and there are countless trails going in all directions allowing to get far away from any noise or other city inconveniences.

With the place (also) being a cemetery, one must refrain from cycling or jogging!

Address: 25th St, Brooklyn, NY 11232


Barbes (Bar & live Music)

The ultimate Brooklyn den

Chairs are usually removed for the night shows.

For a taste of global music & warm atmosphere, head to Barbes in Park Slope, Brooklyn. This eclectic venue hosts an array of live performances, from jazz and world music to experimental (it sometimes gets quirky!). Drinks are also pretty affordable and the crowd is always very engaging. Due to the musical diversity and cool atmosphere Barbes quickly became my to-go bar. A place I bring most of my guests visiting New York. There are usually three different performances every evening throughout the week. The vast majority of the shows are free (donation-based) to attend. The small setting allows for an up-close and personal experience with the artists, creating a sense of connection among the audience.

The ambiance at Barbès is easy-going and inviting, with rustic décor and dim lighting. The venue's charm makes it an ideal spot for both intimate gatherings and spirited nights out, offering a space where culture and camaraderie come to life. The vast majority of the crowd is made of laidback locals from 30 to 99 years old. By hanging out at Barbes I got to chat with all kinds of people having all kinds of obsessions: Astrophysics, Chinese Communism, Rock music, Quebec, etc.. You won’t meet the typical annoying/pretentious folks here and will probably want to come back!

Address: 376 9th St, Brooklyn, NY 11215


Nicholas Roerich Museum (Art)

The most underrated Museum in New York City

Hidden art gem in NYC

Tucked away on the Upper West Side, the Nicholas Roerich Museum is dedicated to the works of the Russian artist, philosopher, and explorer. The tranquil environment and captivating exhibits provide a glimpse into Roerich's visionary world through its numerous trips across Tibet, India and China. The museum's mission is to promote an appreciation of Roerich's contributions to art, science, spirituality, and peacemaking.

The museum houses an extensive collection of Roerich's paintings, with approximately 150 works on display. Roerich's art is renowned for its vibrant colors, mystical landscapes, and spiritual themes, often inspired by his travels in the Himalayas and his deep interest in Eastern philosophy. Each painting invites viewers to embark on a journey of inner reflection and discovery. I liked his artworks so much that it greatly inspired me to organize a trip to Ladakh in India.

In addition to its impressive art collection, the Nicholas Roerich Museum also features a variety of archival materials, including letters, photographs, and manuscripts that provide insight into Roerich's multifaceted life and achievements.

The museum's serene atmosphere (not crowded) is enhanced by its elegant décor and the peaceful surroundings of the Upper West Side. Last but not least, it is entirely free to visit!!

Address: 319 W 107th St, New York, NY 10025


Sunny's

A Timeless Treasure in Red Hook

Sunny's Bar is a beloved neighborhood institution that has been present since the 1890s. If the vast majority of New-Yorkers know that place it is quite rare to hear any foreign travelers getting there. It is true however that the place is in the middle of nowhere being at the end of a labyrinth of industrial facilities, residential lots and port infrastructures. The remoteness of Sunny’s is also its charm. As soon as you step in you realize how PACKED it is! You guessed it right, if the streets are empty it is because everyone is there! The bar's cozy and vintage interior, dim lighting, and friendly staff create a very cool environment that reminded me of the pubs in Ireland. The layout of the bar is quite unusual with multiple areas spreading it looks a bit like a giant private property turned into a massive bar. It really worths checking the outdoor patio in addition to the multiple rooms.

One of the highlights of Sunny's is its vibrant live music scene. The bar regularly hosts an array of talented musicians, offering everything from jazz and blues to folk and rock. In addition to its lively music offerings, Sunny's boasts a well-stocked bar with a diverse selection of craft beers, mulled wines, spicy jalapeño margarita and other alcoholic joys. Apparently the place was said to be Anthony Bourdain’s favorite bar in New-York.

Red Hook is for now quite a quirky neighborhood. Some areas may seem slightly sketchy while some others are really cool with interesting shops, cafes and restaurants. The area is in transition but it definitely deserves a visit. Do not miss the Pioneer Works Center For Art and Innovation nearby!

Address: 253 Conover St, Brooklyn, NY 11231


The Juilliard School (Music & Art Performances)

A World-Class Performance Experience Without Breaking the Bank

Hey, international travelers! If you're in New York City and looking to dive into some high-caliber performing arts without draining your travel funds, then The Juilliard School is your next stop. Nestled in the iconic Lincoln Center, Juilliard is renowned globally for its excellence in dance, drama, and music. And the best part? You don't need a Rockefeller-sized budget to experience it!

This prestigious institution offers a range of low-cost or even free performances throughout the year. Whether it's a riveting drama production, a mesmerizing ballet performance, or a soul-stirring orchestral concert, there's always something happening at Juilliard that will leave you awe-struck.

The school's state-of-the-art facilities are nothing short of spectacular. Picture yourself watching a performance in one of the stunning venues, like the Peter Jay Sharp Theater or the Alice Tully Hall, surrounded by the buzzing artsy vibe of Lincoln Center. It’s an experience that screams New York City culture!

Juilliard isn't just about high-brow performances. The school's eclectic lineup includes everything from contemporary pieces to experimental works, ensuring there's something for every taste. Plus, the student performers bring a fresh, dynamic energy to the stage, making each show a unique and unforgettable experience. There I got to attend Jazz but also Classical music performances. I also chatted a lot with both students and their families, hearing their perspectives on how the school is training them to become elite musicians and performers of tomorrow.

It's the perfect way to add a sprinkle of culture to your NYC adventure without skimping on other experiences.

Address: 60 Lincoln Center Plaza, New York, NY 10023


TV Eye (Live Music & Bar)

An Artistic Haven in Ridgewood

Experience New York’s underground art scene at TV Eye, an innovative performance space in Ridgewood. With its diverse lineup of experimental music, visual art, and multimedia performances, TV Eye is a hub for creative expression and avant-garde artistry.

At TV Eye, you'll find three versatile spaces: the Entire Venue, Room 237, and the Live Music Room. Each space is designed to accommodate a variety of artistic and social events, from live music performances and dance parties to film screenings and multimedia installations.

The ambiance at TV Eye is both eclectic and inviting, with unique aesthetics crafted by talented collaborators. The venue's design reflects a blend of cinematic and artistic influences, creating an imaginative and dynamic atmosphere that encourages creativity and exploration. There I got to attend New Wave, a Brazilian DJ set, Dream Pop & Psychedelic Rock concerts. Last but not least: drinks are very reasonably priced!!

Address: 1647 Weirfield St, Ridgewood, NY 11385


Church of Sweden (Coffee, Pastries & Holiness)

A slice of Swedish heaven

The Church/Café of Sweden is located 10 meters away from the bustling 5th Avenue and the overly-touristy Rockefeller Center. The entrance is pretty discrete and due to all the high towers nearby as well as the pace of the pedestrians it is easy to miss it!

In a city that never sleeps, the Swedish Church stands as a beacon of calm and culture. I am so grateful to this place for being located right next to my workplace. That proximity allowed me to escape COUNTLESS boring small talk/superficial conversations with colleagues during lunch breaks (“Tack gode gud!!!”! 🙏🇸🇪). It's a spot where you can momentarily escape the demands of your corporate job and immerse yourself in the coziness of a Swedish atmosphere with neat decors and introvert people enjoying their Fika.

As soon as you step in you forget being in New York. Actually you will barely hear any English as the place is a regular spot for so many Swedish people (NYC residents and foreign travelers). If you come at opening the Kanelbulle will still be warm as they just got out of the oven!! On top of the authentic pastries and coffee they also sell Swedish candies and other grocery-like items.

Whether you're looking for a cultural experience, spiritual nourishment, or just a moment of peace, the Swedish Church in New York is your urban sanctuary.

Address: 5 E 48th St, New York, NY 10017


Bonus

Sunshine Laundromat (Beers & Laundry)

Detergent & Booze in a Greenpoint speakeasy

Located in the heart of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, Sunshine Laundromat is not your typical laundromat. This hidden spot combines the practicality of a laundromat with the fun and excitement of a pinball arcade and bar, creating a one-of-a-kind experience for its visitors.

At Sunshine Laundromat, you'll find a row of washing machines and dryers, but the real magic happens when you venture to the back of the laundromat. Behind a cleverly disguised entrance, you'll discover a vibrant pinball speakeasy filled with an impressive collection of classic and modern pinball machines. With over 23 pinball machines, including rare titles like "Safe Cracker" and "Big Bang Bar," Sunshine Laundromat offers a nostalgic and thrilling experience for pinball enthusiasts of all ages. The venue also offers a backyard!

The ambiance at Sunshine Laundromat is both quirky and inviting. The venue's playful atmosphere is further enhanced by the presence of the owner's two dogs, who can often be seen resting by the folding station.

In addition to its pinball offerings, Sunshine Laundromat also features a well-stocked bar with a diverse selection of overpriced craft beers. Guests can enjoy their drinks while playing pinball or simply relaxing in the cozy bar area.

Beware, it is very easy to leave the bar forgetting about your clothes in the dryers!! Do not abuse alcohol, but you may abuse the Polish dishes sold on the other side of the road.

Address: 860 Manhattan Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222


Trans-Siberian Journey

Introduction to a long train journey :

Like many other people I had been dreaming of making the Trans-Siberian journey once in my life. For a long time I kept putting it off, hesitating and postponing, always finding excuses: lack of money, too little knowledge of the Russian language, Covid 19 context, etc... And suddenly, one day I said to myself 'fuck it, let's do it'.

My solo trip took place at the beginning of 2022 during the period of rising tension with Ukraine and before the war actually happened. Fortunately, the tricky geopolitical background had no real influence on my trip except at the very beginning when I arrived at the Moscow airport : the border police almost denied me from entering the country because of the multiple sensitive visas in my passport, the lonely aspect of my trip and the photo equipment I was carrying (drone, telephoto lens, etc...).

Before describing the journey, it is necessary to clarify something: the Trans-Siberian Railway is not a train, but a railroad line. Thus, there are many trains that use this line at different times and with different routes. It is quite possible for those who wish to do so not to make any stop and to go directly from Moscow to Vladivostok without getting off. The trip will then last 7 days and will probably be quite boring. As far as I am concerned, I decided to select a few cities to explore. Therefore I targeted the following itinerary: Moscow, Nizhny Novgorod, Kazan, Ekaterinburg, Krasnoyarsk, Baikal (Irkutsk) and finally Vladivostok.

In order to save time I decided to skip Saint Petersburg which I love so much but I had already explored extensively on previous trips.

transiberian Journey

My itinerary of 22 days through the Russian Federation.

So in total I chose to visit 7 cities and travelled 9000km during three weeks across 8 time zones.

From a Western European standard the whole train journey was extremely affordable with a total of 270 euros spent for the tickets (mixing 2nd and 3rd class).

Life aboard the train

I was able to take different trains throughout the trip with sometimes disparate but always suitable comfort. All of them were featuring toilets, a restaurant car and free unlimited hot water for coping with the tea addiction that all passengers have. One of the trains even had a shower!

I think I can say that the train is very representative of the society in general. All social categories, all ages, all profiles can be found abord: students, senior citizens, workers joining their families, young executives, mothers with children, etc...

I will go straight to the point: Alcohol is forbidden in the train compartments. On the other hand, yes, it is quite possible to drink vodka with locals in the restaurant car. If this amused me at first, I also quickly understood that the daily life of the staff who worked there was not always cheerful with the regular presence of alcoholic passengers. An employee even became anxious and obliged me to delete some pictures I took there in order to preserve the image of the train (and maybe of the Russian society).

A 2nd class carriage

It would never occur to me to spend 3 nights in a train in my own country, but abroad the experience seems immediately more exciting. My interactions with the other occupants of the compartment were varied, sometimes jovial, funny, and leading to long interesting conversations; sometimes colder or even almost non-existent. The snowy landscapes across the windows were often monotonous but still fascinating. Forests follow one another with villages and their small wooden houses. From time to time one could see gigantic and old-fashioned looking factories that appeared like ghosts of the communist past.


A Samovar : the strategic hot water supply of the train for passengers

The train is a universe in itself. Solidarity reigns on board. I remember two babushkas who provided me with food and tea with many smiles. My Russian being precarious but sufficient for basic conversations, I was able to talk with them and get to know more about their lives during USSR. They kept caring at me for hours like If I were their own grandson.

Each carriage has a samovar where you can get hot water to prepare your tea or eat noodles. In addition to the main restaurant car, It is also possible to buy some snacks from the officer in charge of each car. These people are real heroes and take care of everything: bringing sheets to new passengers, cleaning the car, carrying meals from the restaurant car, checking tickets on the platform, selling stuff, warning sleeping passengers of an imminent stop that concerns them, etc.. I still don't understand when they are actually resting.

It happens that some stops last more than 20 minutes. These are the joys of smokers who rush out of the train sometimes in the middle of the night dressed in simple pyjamas to go burn a cigarette on the platform despite the freezing temperature of -20 degrees.

night train in russia

A stop somewhere in Siberia

platzkart

Platzkart, the Russian third class

On board the train behaviors vary: many have their eyes glued to their cell phones. Some are reading books, others are looking at the snowy landscape. Because of their open design, the Platzkard cars are not much quiet. You can hear all the near passengers snoring. If like me you have trouble sleeping, you'd better opt for Kupe, the second class which offers more privacy. However the Plarkzard class offers tremendous socialising opportunities.

Concerning safety on board I never really felt that me or my stuff were in danger. I made my whole trip with many valuable items (laptop, drone, camera, etc...) that I sometimes left unattended in the wagon without any problem. The only small risk may be that some passengers in the restaurant car can become too drunk and start to quickly drift from nice fellowship towards nationalistic & aggressive positions. Apply common sense and all should be fine.


Moscow :

One of the Seven Sisters buildings (Stalinist Skycraper built during USSR)

Day 1.

I won't elaborate too much on the Russian capital that I had already visited many times in the past and previously depicted.

In a word, Moscow is the largest city in Europe with about 15 million inhabitants. The atmosphere is both cold and swirling with monumental architecture and less influenced by European than St. Petersburg is. The city absorbs your mental energy as much as it increases it.

The city is an epitome of what a modern megalopolis should be with its constant activity, numerous parks, international restaurants, museums, shopping centers and historic buildings. Security seems to be omnipresent and the streets are clean. Unlike most European cities, the nightlife is not centralized in specific areas but rather scattered throughout the city. As a foreigner it is relatively easy to go out alone in bars and strike up a conversation with people, especially if you can articulate a few words in Russian.

The financial district ‘Moscow City’

It has to be noted that the city is infinitely more modern and developed than the rest of Russia which by the way generates anger and frustration in many Russians. Thus, Moscow attracts many foreign workers and students because of its countless opportunities and dynamism. The cost of living seems to be lower than anywhere in Europe except for housing which is similar to Western Europe.

Like every time I visit the city I am struck by the efficiency of the metro which, in addition to being beautiful and impeccable, greatly facilitates travel through this megalopolis.

As this was a city I already knew, I decided to skip sightseeings and to focus instead on relaxing before the big trip that awaited me. Thus, I spent most of my time in the sauna of my hotel as well as on the roofs of the buildings in front of the business district "Moscow City" to admire the skyscrapers.


Nijni Novgorod :

Day 3.

Nizhny Novogord was the first stop on my long journey. The city is easily accessible from Moscow as the train ride is only 4 hours long and turned out to be very comfortable.

Morning drone view of Nijni Novgorod

Nijni Novogord was founded 800 years ago and remains well known for its connection with the writer Maxim Gorky who lived there. The Gorki name was used for the city throughout the entire Soviet era and it was not until 1990 that the current name was adopted.

Until the collapse of the USSR the city was completely closed to foreigners who could not enter for security reasons. Indeed the city contains many industrial activities and the communist central power wished to limit the risks of espionage or sabotage by the Western bloc.

Nowadays the city is still a major military and industrial hub with offices from various international companies such as Intel, Volkswagen or KPMG. The city has recently benefited from a strong development thanks in particular to the hosting of some matches of the 2018 World Cup and modernization works (construction of two metro lines, development of the riverbank, etc...).

Saint-Alexandre-Nevski Cathedral

Like many other cities in Russia Nizhny Novgorod owns a Kremlin which consists of a historical fortress built on a hill. Its summit offers an exceptional panoramic view of the surroundings and reminded me a bit of my past life in Finland. Despite the biting cold I managed to get my drone off the ground to take some shots of the city from above and to fly over the frozen Volga River.

The old town concentrates a lot of historical buildings and has a rather European atmosphere with trendy cafes, various stores and art galleries. Interactions are sometimes difficult due to the small number of English speakers among the inhabitants. However, there is always at least one young person nearby with a decent level and willing to help.

Russian people

A cool evening with Russian people and a despaired cat :))

Nizhny Novgorod was also a nice opportunity for me to immerse myself in the local life by spending evenings with some young people and a family. We ate blinis and discussed about cultural differences between life in Russia and in France.

Too much wine and a lost key drama later, I finally made it back to my Airbnb to get some rest before the journey to Tatarstan.


Kazan :

Day 5

Qolsharif mosque

Due to the Covid 19 pandemic I could not travel from Nijni Novogord to Kazan by train. After many searches for alternative routes, I finally decided to go there by carpooling with Dimitri that I met through the Blablacar app. The duration of the journey and his non-existent English were a good opportunity for me to practice my Russian. At first, Dimitri was not very talkative and even cold, but his behavior became more and more relaxed as the trip went on. Finally he cared about me as if he had always known me.

After lots of troubles with the local cabs, I finally managed to reach the center of Kazan where strong winds and a temperature of -20 degrees slashed my face.

Kazan is the capital of Tatarstan and is often referred as the ‘Third capital of Russia’ after Moscow and Saint Petersburg. The city is located on the banks of the Volga river and features around 700 000 inhabitants.

Tatarstan is an autonomous republic and has a special status. It even has its own president. The Tatar people are direct of descendants of Genghis Khan and they managed to maintain their own cultural identity. Since very ancient times the city has been an important stopover of numerous trade routes for connecting Asia with Europe.

Throughout History Kazan has been influenced by many ethnicities and few nations fought to ensure its control before Ivan The Terrible finally seized it. Since then, it never left the Russian domination.

The republic of Tatarstan is one of the most developed in Russia. Indeed the economy is favored by the presence of numerous oil fields.

Overall Kazan was an excellent surprise for me. It owns a cute and lively downtown with colorful architecture and bustling streets full of cafés, restaurants and bars. Few areas even reminded me a bit of Saint Petersburg.

Like the whole Russian Federation, Kazan is multi-ethnic and this can be felt in the architecture with the presence of the Qolsharif mosque in the middle of the Kremlin very close to different churches. The city also features a few synagogues. Because of the cold and my desire to enjoy the city without being a slave to my camera I didn't take many pictures, preferring to stroll around the streets and try out all the coffee shops.

I was initially intending to try the traditional Tatar cuisine but unfortunately it seems that almost all the dishes are horse-based which is not so much my type of meat. Maybe I'll have more courage on my next visit!


Ekaterinburg :

Day 7.

Historical fact : it is in Ekaterinburg that Tsar Nicholas II and his family got murdered by the Bolsheviks putting an end to the Romanov’s dynasty.

I arrived to Ekaterinburg after a 15h train journey in Platzkart (the Russian 3rd class), so let say I was not so fresh and full of energy, nevertheless my Airbnb turned out to be more cosy than I had imagined.

Amaury Dreher

Me trying to pretend I am not freezing

Yekaterinburg is the capital of the Urals and marks the junction between Asia and Europe. It is the 4th largest city in Russia and remains known as the city of Boris Eltsine. Similarly to Nijni Novogord, the city hosted some games of the 2018 FIFA World Cup and benefited from some major economic investments over the recent years.

Maybe it was only the randomness of the encounters but I had the impression that the inhabitants of Yekaterinburg were more open-minded than in other regions of Russia that I could visit.

I was able to try out the nightlife through hidden bars and several nice meetings of all ages. The people were easy-going and welcoming. They did not seem to have met many foreign travellers recently. I remember in particular a small bar whose frontage did not appear to be very impressive. After a few minutes inside I found myself eating Pelmenis (a Russian specialty quite close to the Polish Uszka) and then chatting with the whole bar over beers and shots that I didn't know exactly what they contained.

Aerial view of Ekaterinburg and its architectural heterogeneity

As an urban temple of constructivism, Ekaterinburg has a rather cold architecture. Depending on the district, the urban landscape seems either extremely structured or anarchic.

Thus it is not homogeneous, with modern buildings next to Soviet blocks or buildings from the time of imperial Russia. Each street owns its share of surprises and you never know what to expect: church, shopping mall, Soviet block, hipster café, 19th century style buildings, etc..

Either by flying a drone or by climbing the Visotsky observation deck one can sense the scale of the city which is not obvious when roaming around the streets.

Ekaterinburg

It was when I saw this foggy horizon dotted with imposing buildings, either modern or Soviet, that I actually realized how far Europe was.

Eventually, I visited the Yeltsin Center, a huge cultural center dedicated to the first president of the Russian Federation. I am not an expert on the subject and therefore it is difficult for me to say if the glorification of the guy was legitimate or not, but I really enjoyed looking at all the archival material (newspapers, television clips, interviews, objects of the time, etc...) and get to know more about the 90s era in Russia’s history which saw a period of instability and the advent of oligarchs.

Aerial view of a modern district and the Yeltsin center


Krasnoyarsk :

Day 11.

I arrived to Krasnoyarsk after spending 2 nights in a train, an experience which never happened to me before. I was exhausted by the previous evening encounters and lack of sleep. Nevertheless I got quickly awakened by the icy uppercut that the wind blew to my face when I found myself on the platform of the station at 7AM.

Krasnoyarsk is one of the oldest cities in Siberia. The surrounding region concentrates a lot of gold reserves and has strongly contributed to the development of the city. The Krasnoyarsk region is also sadly famous for hosting some of the Gulags and labor camps which were active during USSR times.

To be honest, I had never heard of this city until the day I started preparing my trip. I needed a rest stop between Yekaterinburg and the Baikal lake in order not to spend too much time in the train. Also, I liked how the city name sounded and so out of curiosity I decided to spend two nights there. It was also an opportunity to explore a less touristy and probably more authentic city. Most of the people I interacted with had never met a French person and a lot seemed to be ignorant of many aspects of European culture (perhaps as much as the Europeans are of Siberia).

Russian people in a bar

A cool evening with friendly locals

The city is nowadays a large scientific, educational, and sports center of Russia. I managed to meet with some locals and we went out to several bars in the city. Besides, I really recommend to pay a visit at “All You Need” bistro where I probably had my best meal in Russia.

Some landmarks of Krasnoyarsk seem to have been directly inspired and imitated from European ones whose Big Ben and St. Stephen's Church in Prague. The city is also bordering a natural park with stunning rocks but I had no time to explore it.

In the end, I can say that Kranosyark was a nice break during my journey before heading to one of the main goals of the trip: Lake Baikal.

Despite the polar temperatures the river never freezes because of a dam upstream


Baikal Lake & Olkhon Island :

Day 14.

Lake Baikal seemed to me to be a parallel universe. I had long imagined this incredible place through the travel stories of Sylvain Tesson, the French writer who lived 6 months on the shores of the lake in a wooden hut.

The immensity of the Baikal lake

Some statistics to introduce the lake and its massive scale:

Baikal ice
  • Baikal lake is bigger than Belgium. It is thus on a real immensity which extends on more than 30 000km square.

  • Baikal Lake is the deepest lake in the world and the first in terms of volume (but the second in terms of surface).

  • It is also considered as the oldest existing freshwater lake on Earth (23 million years old).

Given my itinerary and the extremely tight time constraints, I only had two days to really explore the lake and its surroundings.

The weather was not cooperating but it probably contributed to increase the feeling of mystery that rules over the lake. The landscapes reminded me some of the scenes from the Interstellar movie with an impression of a dangerous and bewitching snowy planet. The snowy ground blends with the misty sky.

From time to time, the ice emits a deep noise that I have never heard before except in electronic music. It's a sign that a vehicle is speeding by and the vibration are producing an echo which is spreading below the ice resulting in a massive “boom” sound similar to a distant explosion.

Even though I put all my effort to break it the ice never cracked. According to what I heard it can be up to two meters thick in some places on the lake. This does not prevent fishing enthusiasts from coming with adequate equipment to pierce the ice and spend the day in the cold to catch some fish.

The immensity of the spaces and the calm that prevails create a feeling of freedom and unbelievable serenity. During my day of exploration on the lake I was able to discover icy caves and admire huge rock structures that seem to pierce through ice to reach the sky.

In order to immerse myself a little more in the local atmosphere I decided to spend a few nights on an island in the middle of the lake.

So after taking several buses and boarding a hovercraft for the first time in my life I finally found myself on Olkhon Island. This place is supposedly famous for hosting some Shamanic people. To this date I still don't understand if it's a real cultural trait or if it's just a way to attract tourists but I enjoyed my stay there.

Shamans or not, the islands is populated by many Buryat people who are a specific ethnic group descendants of the Mongols. Thus, like few other parts of Russia the island is influenced by Buddhism. This cultural heritage can also be seen in Ogoy Island which is inhabited but host a Stupa (Buddhist monument) at the top of its main hill.

View of the Khuzhir village on Olkhon Island

I couldn't have enjoyed more these few days of calm and contemplation. After all these large urban centers that were Moscow, Nizhny Novgorod, Kazan, Yekaterinburg and Krasnoyarsk, I was now in the middle of a quiet place, surrounded by a pristine nature. I even took the opportunity to work on overcoming my phobia of dogs which were numerous in the village. The success was relative but the effort deserves recognition.

The guesthouse where I spent two nights was held by Vera and her husband who live all year on the island turned out to be amazing hosts. Their place featured an outdoor wooden sauna sauna where I spent countless hours. The village of Khuzhir was interesting to explore with its many wooden houses in traditional style. The inhabitants live mainly from tourism and fishing. There are also some horse and cattle breeders.

After the two nights spent in the island I boarded again the hovercraft to reach the opposite shore and we headed back to Irkutsk. It was a kind of a speed race because the next morning I had to board the next and last train of my trip which was to last almost 4 days until Vladivostok.

Therefore, unfortunately I did not have enough time to explore calmly Irkutsk which is one of the biggest cities in Siberia.


Vladivostok :

Day 20.

Fun fact: North Korea is less than 100 km away and a train seems to go there…

The lighthouse on the shore of the Sea of Japan

Vladivostok is located at the terminus of the Transiberian Railway in the Russian Far East. Its strategic location made it as an important diplomatic and economic outpost throughout History. Nowadays the city has been hosting the Russian Pacific Fleet and many landmarks are visible throughout the city reminding about the past of the Russian Navy (former submarines, sculptures, commemorative plates, statues, etc..)

I arrived there totally exhausted after spending more than 80 hours in the train (3 nights) and craving for a shower.

My time in Vladivostok was limited to only 2 full days so I did not loose any time and decided to start exploring as soon as I had my first coffee of the day.

Vladivostok is the epitome of what a maritime industrial city is. Thus, the area is scattered with fishing ports, marinas, ship repair factories and container port.

The city faces the Sea of Japan and acts as a major economic and industrial hub for the Pacific region. Therefore it is a strategic asset for Russia and international trade, especially for the automotive industry and raw materials (coal). It is estimated that around 30% of the population is somehow linked to the automobile import business. If not all the inhabitants of Vladivostok are believers, they all worship Toyota.

Vladivostok is not a concentrate of architectural jewels as Saint Petersburg or Moscow can be. Nevertheless, there is an obvious charm in walking through its meanders, climbing its various hills that offer views of the horizon of the Sea of Japan but also on the different districts of the city that differ so much from each other.

One of the Vladivostok massive bridges

Vladivostok city

Vladivostok is a city of contrasts

Vladivostok looks somehow like a race video game set with its hills, its port, the various industrial areas and especially its two huge bridges that span the sea to connect the different districts. In addition to these architectural aspects, Vladivostok has a real drifting culture that I had the chance to discover thanks to a local. Gigantic bridges, wide avenues, urban highways, all kinds of intersections and junctions : all this wet and shiny asphalt provides an amazing playground for speed lovers and powerful cars.

The marina/modern side of the city

The city seemed quite cosmopolitan to me with obvious Chinese, Korean and Japanese influences. Out of curiosity I decided to dine in a North Korean restaurant where I noticed that the menu included Zacuska (which is also a traditional Romanian dish).

Surprisingly, Vladivostok was the second most expensive city of the whole trip (after Moscow) but remained far below Western standards.

I hope to have the opportunity to come back in the summer to enjoy the terraces and explore the surroundings a bit more.






This is the end of this fabulous trip that left me with incredible memories. If I first considered it as a constraint, the Covid 19 context was actually a blessing because I met absolutely no foreigners during my whole train journey.

In the future, I plan to repeat the experience during the summer, this time going through the alternative route to Ulan-Bator in Mongolia and probably pushing south up to China. Looking forward :))

10 alternative places to visit in Greece

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Mykonos, Corfu, Athens, Zakynthos, Santorini, etc… Chances are that these names will remind you of something, and for good reason, they are the most visited places in Greece and the most known from abroad.

However, it would be a huge mistake to limit Greece to only these very touristic destinations (and overcrowded ones). The country is indeed full of other interesting and underestimated places, frequented by locals but neglected by international travelers.

Here are a few alternative places to explore a more authentic side of Greece and dive deeper into its splendid culture :


  • Meteora

The area of Meteora is full of mystery. It is often shrouded in fog and contains many rocky peaks on top of which hermits have chosen to live or find refuge.

Meteora landscape in Northern Greece


Today there are 12 active monasteries remaining whose only six can be visited. They all date from the 14th and 15th centuries.

The access to the monasteries is relatively difficult. A system of ropes and nets has been designed to facilitate the provisioning of basic goods.

It is important to note that the dress code is strict for women. It is important to note that the dress code is strict for both men and women : shoulders and legs must be fully covered. Some monasteries provide long skirts for women that can be worn during the visit.

It is possible to reach Meteora from Athens by train to Kalambaka.


  • Kefalonia (island)


Myrtos beach in Kefalonia

Myrtos beach in Kefalonia

The island of Kefalonia is mountainous and features many caves. It is probably one of the most underestimated and wildest islands in Greece. Venetian fortresses, beaches with clear turquoise waters, small pictorial villages, Kefalonia has it all. The island has a permanent population of around 35,000 people.

Adventure seekers can visit the Melissani Cave, the so-called cave of the nymphs which features clear shining water and stalactites. For hiking enthusiasts it is also recommended to climb the Mount Aenos summit which does not raise too much difficulties.

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To get to Kefalonia it is possible to take the ferry from Patras (Kefalonian Lines) or from Brindsi in Italy (Endeavour Lines).

For those who prefer to fly, Easyjet and Ryanair operate flights in summer.


  • Pelion

Typical view of Pelion a landscape

Typical view of Pelion a landscape


The Pelion region is a peninsula located about 4 hours drive from Athens. It differs from the rest of the country in that its geography and landscape are much greener. One can find forests and valleys but also small villages with stone houses that one must reach by taking tortuous paths.

Among others, the following villages are particularly charming: Makrinitsa, Mouresi, Tsagarada, Portaria, Mikro, Damouchari, etc…

Eventually, the area features a gastronomic specialty that is difficult to find elsewhere : Spetzofaï (pita topped with roasted sausage, peppers, onions and hot tomato sauce)


  • Zagori (Epirus)


Vikos Gorge in Epirus - Zagoria by Joerg (Creative Common license)

The Zagorias are in some ways the wild side of Greece where one has the impression to travel out of time. Zagoria (or Zagori) is a mountainous region in the northwest of Greece and features the most distinctive scenery of the whole country. This specificity is not only geographical but also cultural with a dialect that is only spoken there. The region is full of picturesque villages that are scattered throughout the mountains and contain plenty of small paths or stone bridges. Houses are also made of stone with slate roofs and turn out particularly charming. For nature lovers, don't miss the Vikos Gorge which is one of the deepest canyons in the world in proportion with its width. The biodiversity in Epirus is quite large, you could even meet there wolves and even some bears.


  • Kastoria

Cityscape of Kastoria with Orestiada lake

Cityscape of Kastoria with Orestiada lake

Kastoria has been built around the Orestiada lake which is one of the most beautiful spot in the whole Balkan region. In previous centuries the city was notably renowned for its furs trade. It is now a pleasant place for relaxation and turns out to a host a quite different atmosphere from the rest of Greece thanks to its lake and the surrounding limestone mountains.

Nowadays Kastoria is home to about 35,000 people and features many cute Byzantine churches. One can also notice some Ottoman architecture reminding of Greece’s history. Speaking of architecture one can immediately feel the proximity with Macedonia and notably Ohrid which reminded be Kastoria to some extent.

Kastoria’s location makes it perfect to stop for a few days if you are on a Balkan roadtrip due to the nearby borders with both Albania and Macedonia.


  • Monemvassia


Ancient Fortress in Monemvassia

Ancient Fortress in Monemvassia

The giant rock that houses the fortress broke away from the Greek mainland as a result of an earthquake. Monemvassia has attracted the interest of many powers throughout history: the Venetians, the Ottoman Empire, the Byzantines, etc...

According to historians, the city housed up to 30,000 inhabitants in the 18th century. After the Second World War it became a ghost town before being slowly repopulated.

During the last decades the place has known a renaissance and attracts Athenians willing to escape the capital for a weekend.

The city is located 4 hours drive from Athens.


  • Lefkada (island)

Porto Katsiki beach in Lefkada

Porto Katsiki beach in Lefkada

Lefkada was damaged by the earthquakes of 1948 and 1953. It has therefore been subject to multiple reconstructions throughout History. The architecture varies greatly depending on whether you are in the main towns or in the remote villages. There some houses were built with stone or wood while in the urban areas you will find more colorful houses. But the island is especially renowned for its coastline. Lefkada offers paradisiacal beaches with emerald and crystal clear waters. They are probably the purest and most beautiful ones in Europe : Porto Katsiki, Kalamitsi, Mylos, Agiofili, etc…

Lefkada is connected to the Greek mainland by a bridge and it is therefore possible to get there by car. The island is also easily reachable through the Aktion international airport.


Byzantine church in Chios

  • Chios (island)

The island of Chios is located only 11 km away from Turkey and offers a perfect synthesis of the charms of Greece thanks to its creeks, its ancient sites and its various typical villages which keep a strong cultural authenticity. One of the he island specificities is due to the numerous mastic trees which are now an emblem of the place. Various products are made from mastic extracts and not only the taste is quite pleasant but it also owns many medicinal virtues (digestion, relaxation, etc…). The product is now exported all around the world and provides a boost to the local economy.

Besides its beauty the island is famous for being the native land of the poet Homer.


  • Xania (Chania)

Chania’s lighthouse in Crete

Chania’s lighthouse in Crete

Xania (sometimes spelled Hania or Chania) is second most important city in Crete. It is way more interesting to visit than the capital of the island (Heraklion).

Small street in Chania

Small street in Chania

The city features a Venetian port which is protected by walls. Its historic center is a paradise for strolling along the docks and through its alleys. Due to its complex and long history the city is now covered with Ottoman, Venetian, Jewish and Greek monuments. One can find churches, monasteries, lighthouses, various stores selling regional and even a mosque. (The minaret got destroyed in the 1920s but most of the building remains untouched.)

Eventually, the city hosts a small international airport which makes it quite easy to reach.




  • Kerkini lake

pelican

The site is a former swamp located near the Bulgarian border and surrounded by mountains. You can take a boat ride and watch many birds in their natural habitat. There are in particular some Dalmatian pelicans which are an endangered species. The area is extremely peaceful and relaxing. If you are roaming through Northern Greece it is definitely a must-see and a good opportunity to admire a different side of the country than the usual Greek sceneries.

 

Bonus :

  • Hydra (island)

Hydra

Hydra coastline

Depicted in my Travel photography report : click here